The Rails

Over the years I've taken many Backpacking trips, the hike always ends by trying to get back a vehicle to take me back home, a most anticlimactic end to bliss. When Finishing the Chilkoot Trail however, a reward awaits the backpacker, the White Pass and Yukon Railway. The White Pass and Yukon Route is spectacular. But the story behind the route is amazing. ***

The dreams of a connection between the Lynn Canal and Yukon began much earlier than the actual Rush itself. As far back as 1892 a survey was taken and although thought impractical at the time the great rush of gold seekers to the Klondike was impetus to construct the route. In 1898, backed by a group of British investors, construction of the railroad began. Fighting difficult terrain and climate the rails inched their way up to White Pass. Creating a manageable grade, blasting tunnels and building formidable trestles this super human endeavor took less than two years to complete. The railroad put to rest the two competing trails, the Chilkoot and the White Pass Trails. By July 1900 rail was completed to White horseand eliminating the most dangerous stretches of river travel to Dawson., But by then the rush was fast petering out. Gold had been discovered in Nome and later Fairbanks and the serious prospectors started new stampedes in search of riches.

For the time being the route only goes to the shore of Lake Bennett as the remainder was abandoned.The Railway is now working on re-establishing rail service to Carcross which should begin next year. These days tourists are responsible for most of the runs. The passengers ride in comfort in restored rail cars. We chose to abandon the plush interior and park ourselves outside on the walkway. There is something truly exhilarating about riding the rails outside of the cars. Being on the last car we watch the scenery go by, with the glint of the rails always fading away into the landscape. . . Say, how romantic can it get!

Robert Service took this mode of transportation as he traveled to White Horse for the first time. His impressions are recorded in his first biography, Ploughman of the Moon.;

Skagway was wreathed in rain when I took the train for White Horse. But immediately the snow began, and soon their was six feet of it on either side of the climbing track. Far below I could see the old trail of Ninety-eight, but I did not dramatize it. It looked tough enough, though. I was was glad of the comfort of this funny little train, perhaps the most expensive in the world. Had not my ticket, for about a hundred miles of transportation, cost me twenty-five dollars? There were few passengers, and the windows were opaque with ice. I could not see much of the scenery, but what I did glimpse was dreary and depressing. Stunted pines pricked through the snow, and cruel crags reared over black abysmal lakes. A tough country indeed. I was glad I had not been one of those grim stalwarts of the Great Stampede.

At the Yukon frontier I encountered my first Mountie. He failed to make a favorable impression, for he pounced on a package containing a pair of felt boots I had bought in Skagway. He demanded two dollars duty. As I paid I could have kicked myself with them. Two dollars shot to Hades! A nice beginning to may campaign of economic independence. As I stepped onto the White Horse platform it seemed jammed with coonskin coats. But for the rosy faces of the men inside them, it might have been coon carnival. Then one of them addressed me.

"Better put on your coat."

"I'm not cold . How cold is it?"

"About thirty Below. You don't feel it because you're a Cheechako. Your blood's like soup. When you've been here a year you'll get cold conscious. . . by the way, I'm your Manager. Come along to the house" As he took me to my new home he was no doubt thinking: Another of the duds Head Office dump on us. Well we must make the best of it.

-Robert Service, Ploughman of the Moon, 1945

Well Robert certainly made the best of it! In White horse he published his first book of Verse, Songs of a Soughdough. This piece of work would catapult him to fame as the "Bard of the Yukon".

We arrive back in Skagway, and head over to the towns laundry mat. Here, while waiting for the cloths to dry, I strike up a conversation with the girl behind the counter. She also doubles as a tour guide during the day. After spouting a bit of Service I come to find out that she also holds a great respect for his works. She said that she too tried to put a ballad to memory but found that it did not sound right to her in a woman's voice.

It is true that most recitals of Service material I have come across are by men. The exception I can think of is a fine recording by JoAnn and Monte entitled , Joanne and Monte Meet Robert Service, put out by JoMonte Music of Anchorage. If readers of these pages can think of any other recordings by women let me know.

We now start our four wheeled portion of our journey. We head down to Avis and after picking up a Buick we head on to White Horse and Dawson down the "Service Road". Along the way we come to discover the vastness of this country and again gain respect for those "grim stalwarts of the Great Stampede"

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